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Las Vegas strip at night with dark blue sky, aerial view. Image Credit: Supplied

Gambling is the first word that comes to mind when I think of Vegas. Not much of a gambler myself, I wasn’t sure if Sin City was for me but my trip to Vegas taught me otherwise. Yes, it sure is casinomania on this one decadent strip but there’s so much else to do even without the reckless fun.

The brand-new glitzy City Centre had just opened when I reached Vegas. In fact, my husband Ashish and I were lucky enough to be one of the first guests staying at the suave Vdara Hotel. While it is interlinked with the Bellagio, which means we had the best of food, casino, shows and the works right on our doorstep, the Vdara is different. It felt more like a sanctuary away from the heaving mass (and without a casino — a breath of fresh air). It is the epitome of contemporary luxury.

What I realised within a day of being here is that Vegas is as much about resting, enjoying the spa and eating good food as it is about seeing shows and gambling. And while it’s not a destination anyone would choose just to chill out and rest, it’s definitely worth coming here just for the spectacular theatre productions.

After a tiring trip here, Ashish and I were ready to rest — do-not-disturb signs and blackout curtains, along with spa afternoons. OK, so it wasn’t a daily thing — after all, we were only there for four days — but a couple of hours in the spa (despite the odd $25, or Dh, fee for hotel guests to use the facilities) was entirely relaxing, as were the massages. Another spa you may want to try in Vegas is the sprawling, stylish Qua Baths and Spa at the Caesars Palace.

Shows

We might have picked the wrong season to go to Vegas — December gets a little chilly in the evenings — but it didn’t seem to affect us, apart from not being able to use the outdoor pool. The astounding evening shows were the highlight of our day. The visually dramatic KA at MGM Grand was filled with mystery, a gobsmacking set which rotated, slanted at crazy angles, and an impressive cast flipping from arrows with such ease when they could have fallen off the vertical stage — and then there was La Reve’s aquatic tapestry of art, love and surrealism showing at The Wynn Hotel. The theatres designed specifically for each show, the special effects, acting, music and synchronisation were awesome. And each show was a masterpiece in itself.

You can’t miss out on the incredible shows — just to list a few others, there are the colourful aerobics of <Mystere at Treasure Island>, the impressive underwater adventure of <O> at the Bellagio, Cirque du Soleil’s <Viva Elvis> at the brand-new Aria Resort, the spectacular <Phantom of the Opera> at the Venetian — or the New York New York Hotel’s <Zumanity>, the sensual side of Cirque du Soleil. There’s also the eccentric magicians Penn and Teller, whose award-winning show is now permanently at the Rio. Finally, if you’re a fan of Cher — or even if you’re not — <Cher at the Colosseum> at Caesars Palace is a dazzling production definitely worth seeing.

 Food

When it comes to restaurants, step into any hotel in Vegas and you’re just spoilt for choice — the Bellagio alone has a staggering 20. But with limited time, there are a few you might want to try out. Don’t miss the tasting menu at Rosemary’s (they can also cater for vegetarians), run by Michael and Wendy Jordan. It’s off the strip but definitely worth the drive.

For a lively, delectable lunch, Olives at the Bellagio is one to try — there’s also a great view if you’re sitting outside. Fancy an Italian evening feast? Dine in style at Nove Italiano, located on the 51st floor of the Palms Fantasy Tower. I loved the ravioli but you probably won’t go wrong with any order. Leave space for the strawberry carpaccio ending served with crème fraiche gelato.

If you’re up for breakfast, the ambience and spread at the Venetian’s Bouchon restaurant (owned by Thomas Keller) is fantastic, especially the fresh-baked bread and wonderful chocolate croissants. For the best Chinese cuisine in Vegas, head to China Grill at Mandalay Bay. Or do you just want a good pizza? Wolfgang Puck brings Californian cuisine to the MGM Grand, with delicious, wood-oven-baked pizzas and an excellent selection of entrées. And if you have a sweet tooth, try Coyote Café’s desserts, baby of Chef Mark Miller. Don’t miss out the canella cheesecake with bourbon caramel sauce and candied pecans.

What else

If you’re looking for something else in the day, something a little more highbrow, Las Vegas also has a museum, believe it or not. The Las Vegas Arts Museum (www.lasvegasartmuseum.org) is housed in the West Sahara Library Fine Arts Museum, an impressive building built in the valley.

Vegas is also well known for outlet malls. If you’re looking for cheap designer wear, head to Fashion Outlets, located approximately half-hour south of the Las Vegas Strip on I-15 at Exit 1 in Primm. It’s en route to Los Angeles, so if you’re driving to LA, just stop there for a couple of hours.

Finally, one thing you just have to do in Vegas is go see the Grand Canyon by helicopter. You’ll have views of the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead and the Las Vegas Strip en route between Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon. There are plenty of companies doing this — just ask your hotel concierge to find you the best package depending on timing.
 

1829: The Spanish Scout Rafael Riviera becomes first European in the Las Vegas Valley. The valley is named Las Vegas, Spanish for "The Meadows".

1855: The Mormons arrive in Las Vegas and establish a fort.

1864: Nevada is admitted to the Union as the 36th state by President Lincoln.

Late 1800s: The discovery of minerals, including precious metals, leads to the beginning of the mining industry.

1911: The City of Las Vegas is incorporated. Divorce laws are liberalised in the State of Nevada, making residency easier to attain. Clark County population is 3,321.

1931: The construction of Hoover Dam brings an influx of construction workers, which starts a population boom and gives the valley's economy a needed boost. Gambling is legalised in Nevada.

1940s: Las Vegas's population has grown to 8,422. The outbreak of the Second World War brings the defence industry to the valley.

1941: The first Strip Hotel opens, El Rancho Vegas.

1945: Following the Second World War, luxurious resort hotels and gambling casinos come into existence.

1950: Las Vegas population is 24,624.

1955: Moulin Rouge, Las Vegas's first racially integrated hotel, opens its doors.

1964: The Beatles arrives in Las Vegas and performs two sold:out shows at the Las Vegas Convention Centre.

1966: The Aladdin Hotel and Casino and Caesars Palace Hotel and Casino open.

1969: Elvis Presley opens at the International Hotel, now known as the Las Vegas Hilton.

1970: Clark County population is 273,288 (Las Vegas, 125,787).

1973: The MGM Grand Hotel and Casino opens as the world's largest hotel.

1977: Clark County Gaming Revenue reaches $1 billion.

1980: MGM Grand Hotel is consumed in a fire (worst disaster in Las Vegas history).

Mid-1980s: The city's population almost doubles between 1985 and 1995, increasing from 186,380 to 368,360.

1989: Mirage opens with 3,039 rooms.

1990: Excalibur opens as the world's largest resort hotel, with 4,032 rooms.

1993: Money won by Nevada casinos tops the $6 billion mark.

1993: Luxor Hotel opens, with 2,526 rooms.

1993: Treasure Island Hotel opens with 2,900 rooms.

1996: Wayne Newton celebrates 25,000th Las Vegas performance. Siegfried and Roy celebrate their 15,000th performance.

1996: Monte Carlo, a joint venture between Circus Circus Enterprises Inc and Mirage Resorts Inc, opens.

1996: 29.6 million people visit Las Vegas in 1996. The state gross gaming revenue totals $7.45 billion and Clark County population hits 1.1 million.

1997: New York, New York Hotel Casino opens.

1998: Bellagio opens, billed as the most expensive hotel in the world ($1.7 billion). Nevada annual gaming revenue reaches $8.1 billion. The annual visitor counts to Las Vegas reach 30.6 million people.

1999: Paris Las Vegas Casino Resort opens.

2003: Venezia Tower opens at the Venetian, with an additional 1,013 suites.

2005: Visitor volume for 2004 breaks tourism records with 37.4 million. Wynn Las Vegas opens, featuring a full-service Ferrari and Maserati dealership.

2005: Las Vegas Sands breaks ground for The Palazzo, a $1.6-billion, 3,000-room resort adjacent to The Venetian.

2006: Cirque du Soleil opens its fifth resident show, Love, at The Mirage, replacing long-time Las Vegas magicians, Siegfried & Roy.

2007: NBA All-star 2007 comes to Las Vegas. For the first time in history, the NBA All-star game is played in a city without a resident NBA team.

2007: The Las Vegas Springs Preserve, a cultural and historic attraction, opens to the public.

2008: The Palazzo celebrates its grand opening.

2009: Hotel 32 at Monte Carlo opens.

Meera Ashish is a UK-based freelance writer